The one with the Early Morning Beer, Unusual Descents, and Bells That Won’t Quit
📍 Location:Roncesvalles to Zubiri
🥾 Miles: 14 glorious miles
⛑️ Health Update To be honest, my left foot is really aching. Blisters and sore muscles seem to be the trend today, but mostly, it’s fatigue.
🌦️ Weather: Another stunning day.
🥘 Food: Plenty of café stops along the way, which meant we were grazing all day – and yes, our first beer was at 11am! 😂
Highlights of the Day
⏰ 6am Wake-Up Call
In true Camino style, the monastery lights pinged on right at 6 a.m., with everyone waking to sudden brightness. Traditionally, this wake-up call is accompanied by monks singing, but today, there was only silence. Disappointed, we began packing until, almost as an afterthought, the beautiful chanting began. Ann turned to me and asked, “Is that real monks singing?” – a question that left us all laughing as we kicked off a lighthearted day.
Flip Flop Man
🩴 Meeting “Flip Flop Man”
In the monastery’s very fragrant boot room, I spotted a man awkwardly shuffling in flip-flops. Turns out his socks didn’t fit his shoes, so he was wearing them sideways! We had a good laugh, snapped a picture, and from then on, he was forever known as Flip Flop Man.
🍳 Breakfast Surprise
After a basic dinner the night before, we were thrilled by breakfast – a spread of cheese, ham, toast, jam, moist citrus cake, and jars of hot coffee and juice. We even got high-fives from our Camino comrades: Superman (a friendly French guy) and “The Vicar” (who wasn’t actually a vicar but had a t-shirt that looked suspiciously like a dog collar).
Our wonderful breakfast
📸 Setting Off in High Spirits
With our group photo taken and everyone briefed, we set off, passing adorable Basque villages with red-shuttered windows and flower boxes. Elderly couples strolled arm-in-arm along the winding paths, giving us a true taste of the authentic Spain.
🫏 Unexpected Conversation Starters
We encountered several horses and two donkeys along the way. The male donkey, let’s just say, gave us plenty to talk about for the next half hour! 😉
🌹 Roses and Thorns Ritual
At the top of a hill, we gathered for our “Roses and Thorns” tradition, sharing our best and toughest moments from the day. It must have looked like an impromptu support group – a group of pilgrims standing in a circle, laughing and nodding.
☕️ First Café Stop
Our first café had a delicious slice of almond cake, plus three coffees and four cakes for just €8! Only in Spain.
🙀 Lost & Found with a Twist
The café owner came running out with a phone and woolly headband someone had left behind. Lou quickly identified them as belonging to “the lady with the amazing hair” and took off like Wonder Woman down the lane to find her. Just as she returned empty-handed, a Scottish voice piped up: “Ah! There’s my phone.” Cue a round of heartfelt thank-yous.
👧 Paul Becomes ‘One of Us’
The conversation shifted to “girly” topics after the phone incident, and Paul gamely joined in – officially inducted into the group!
🥾 A “Thin Place”
We passed through a “thin place” on the Camino, where it’s said the spirit world merges with ours. Many pilgrims leave crosses woven from sticks in remembrance of loved ones. Two of our group stopped to do just that – a lovely, solemn moment amidst our journey.
🍷 Morning Beer O’Clock
At our second café, the stamp-collecting competition for our Camino passports was heating up. Some ordered beer or wine, and while Kate initially declared it too early, she later caved and joined me for a glass of vino blanco. “When it’s only €2 and cheaper than coffee, it’d be rude not to!” she laughed.
👞 Mystery of the Books and Shoes
A surreal sight awaited us: shoes lined up along the path, each paired with a book, leading us through an archway into a field filled with gypsy caravans and tents overflowing with books. We could take any book we wanted, and I could have spent hours there.
🦶 Challenges Underfoot
As we neared Zubiri, the terrain became rougher, and my swollen foot throbbed with each step. I took a quick break at a food truck, opting for lemon beer to ease the pain. Knowing the final 1.5-mile descent was rocky and unforgiving, I went slowly and pushed through.
🙌 Arrival in Zubiri
By 3pm, we reached the stone bridge into Zubiri. A few group members were already at Valentina Bar, laughing and chatting with other pilgrims over wine. For this Camino, I’d told everyone to meet at the bar first, while I went to the hotel to handle check-ins. This system has worked wonders, much smoother than in previous years.
🚿 Settling In and the Evening Wrap-Up
Our group bunk room was cosy, and after a quick rest, Lou, Ali, and I hobbled up the street to book a dinner table. We closed the evening with our “Roses and Thorns,” a tradition I love for how it rounds off each day. Just as I lay in bed, exhausted, the church bells rang nine times. I hoped they wouldn’t continue all night, but it was a fitting end to a day filled with laughter, challenges, and gratitude for the journey.
Thanks for reading!
#BeMoreFrank #AdventureGeek #LiveYourBestLife